AWITC Bus Tour Explores McLaren Vale Districts and Soil Profiles

The Australian Wine Industry Technical Conference (AWITC), held every three years, also featured a Bus Tour Programme in 2025. Carolyn Howell did two of these bus tours on 18 July and 23 July.

Bus Tour #01: “DIY terroir – the journey of the McLaren Vale Districts Committee”

Bus Tour #01 was led by Wes Pearson of the Australian Wine Research Institute (AWRI) and Jodie Armstrong of the McLaren Vale Grape, Wine and Tourism Association (MVGWTA). The MVGWTA provides the wine, grapes, food and tourism industries of the McLaren Vale Region, South Australia, with a vision for the future in both domestic and international markets. It acts as an advocate for and represents industries in local, national and international forums, and is a driving force behind their development. McLaren Vale has been investigating its complex and unique geologies since the late 1990s. The first comprehensive geology map of the region was published in 2010, and thereafter, a community group was formed to help understand how the geology influences the sensory characteristics of their wines. The region itself was divided into 19 districts. The foundation of work has given insights into the unique sensory characteristics of wines made in McLaren Vale and helps producers translate the story of these regional characters to their customers. Before delegates boarded the bus to McLaren Vale, they sterilised their shoes in a solution of sodium hypochlorite (Figure 1), which made the bus smell of Jik.

FIGURE 1. Carolyn Howell sterilised her shoes before boarding the bus to McLaren Vale. It is important that the shoes are sterilised, because South Australia is a phylloxera-free zone.

Bus Tour #01 took delegates through the steps the MVGWTA Districts Committee took to characterise and develop the sub-regional narrative in McLaren Vale. This initiative allows producers to use information about the districts in their winemaking, marketing and consumer messaging. Delegates visited Maxwell Wines, where Mark Maxwell welcomed them and noted that their land is well-suited to producing certain types of wine. Thereafter, delegates were invited to view the unique soil profile at Maxwell Wines, which has an information board (Figure 2) and is protected by a small barrier fence (Figure 2). The specific soil profile (Figure 2) is known as the Blanche point formation and was deposited in the Ecocene Epoch as the sea advanced easterly into the Willunga and Noarlunga Embayments. Fossils from the sea can be found in the soil, which consists of clay sitting above limestone. The clay has a good soil water holding capacity and drains quickly. Duncan Kennedy and Wes Pearsen told delegates that grapevines growing on the Blanche point formation are balanced, do not get too stressed, and produce Shiraz wines with minerality.

Maxwell Wines forms part of District 10 (Sea View). The District Programme takes into account similar soils and altitudes. The Sea View District is not entirely limestone, but there is some calcareous character in the soil. There are six soil pits in McLaren Vale where visitors can come, interact, view soil forms and taste wines.

FIGURE 2. The unique soil profile at Maxwell Wines in McLaren Vale has an information board and small barrier fence.

At d’Arenberg, which is approximately 15 km from the sea (Figure 3), delegates met the Owner and Winemaker, Chester Osborn, at the site of the exposed Pirramimma sandstone (Figure 3) and listened attentively while he gave an overview of the geology. Pirramimma geology consists of sand or loam above sandstone, which is very friable and crumbly. The sandstone is about 2.4 million years old and contains many micronutrients. Wines made from grapevines growing in sandy or sandy-loam soils are described as elegant and fruity.

FIGURE 3. The exposed Pirramimma soil profile at d’Arenberg in McLarenVale.

The group then visited Chapel Hill Winery. At this venue, Jodie provided more information about the MVGWTA, which has about 530 grape growers. The McLaren Vale Districts Project began to formally identify and define sub-regional districts within McLaren Vale based on the relationships among climate, geology and topography. The focus areas are research, education and support. In terms of research, there are tastings to define districts and distribute boundaries. For education, there are tutorials, geology, cellar door and wine show tours. The MVGWTA also plays a strong supporting role in elevating the region’s premium wine narrative and enabling stronger storytelling. Michael Fragos, the Head Winemaker at Chapel Hill, provided further details about the geology map, which was relaunched in 2010. Wes explained that there are annual district wine tastings. Samples are received and blended for each district. This is called the “District Blend”. After the tastings, they also review the individual wines in each district and identify common themes within each district. Thereafter, the data is analysed statistically. In their sampling, they include no more than three samples per producer.

Delegates of Bus Tour #01 also partook of a blind wine tasting (Figure 4). Wines from Districts 3, 5, 9, 10 and 12 in McLaren Vale were presented. Delegates had to note the differences between the wines and characterise them.

In conclusion, it was noted that they are considering more of a style rather than wine quality characteristics. It was noted that one should be cautious about what to say about quality. The project is creating a toolbox to help every producer sell their wines. This can help winemakers with their winemaking. Information generated is a good baseline to work from. In the future, they will also focus on measuring viticultural parameters. It was also emphasised that this was a community project and that consistent, clear information had to be provided.

FIGURE 4. Delegates tasted wines from the different districts in McLaren Vale.

Bus Tour #03: “Sustainability: Who’s asking for what, how are we answering and who’s helping us along the way?”

The Workshop #37 “Who’s asking for what, how are we answering and who’s helping us along the way?” comprised of a very comprehensive programme. Aspects covered included: Australian Wine: Current insights into sustainability in the retail space, how to make sustainability reporting work for you and how to make wine business sustainability more than a “tick-box” exercise. This workshop was followed by Bus Tour #03 to the Adelaide Hills, which began with a visit to Shaw and Smith (Figure 5). The business owns four Adelaide Hills vineyards. Cousins Michael and Martin told delegates about sustainable biological farming, in which vine and soil health and low yields are valued. They highlighted the importance of sustainability. The group then drove on the bus to Vitiworks and enjoyed the scenery along the way (Figure 6).

FIGURE 5. The first stop of the tour was at Shaw and Smith.

FIGURE 6. On the way, participants saw a (A) farmhouse, (B and C) typical architecture of the houses, (D) a restaurant selling Chicken Parmigiana, a dish enjoyed by many Australians, (E) a bottle store, and (F) an irrigation shop.

The group then met with Mark Vella, who is the Director of Vitiworks. They focus on growing super premium wine grapes for over 62 wine companies, from family-owned businesses to corporate companies. Discussions took place in a vineyard where Mark’s team was working. There were also solar panels near the vineyard (Figure 7).

FIGURE 7. Solar panels near the vineyard from (A) the front, and (B) the side aspect.

The group then went to Gumeracha to visit Unico Zelo, which is a wine business with sustainability as its main focus. They craft playful wines and spirits (Figures 8 and 9). Unico Zelo was the first B-Corp certified winery in Australia. Henry Doyle, a Sales Representative, met with the group. The group also tasted Unico Zelo wines and spirits. Thereafter, the group returned to Adelaide and enjoyed the scenery en route (Figure 10), while reflecting on the increasing importance of sustainability in wine grape production.

FIGURE 8. The winery uses (A) indigenous plants for (B) spirits, and has a (C) on-site laboratory. A (D) wine and spirit tasting formed part of the programme.

FIGURE 9. The (A) setup for the tasting, and (B and C) even yellow wine was on offer.

FIGURE 10. Typical Australian scenery with the (A) magnificent trees, and (B) epic rivers surrounded by bush scrub.

Acknowledgements

• Agricultural Research Council (ARC) for the opportunity to attend the 19th AWITC.
• South Africa Wine for funding to attend the 19th AWITC.

For more information, contact Carolyn Howell at [email protected].

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