Manicures and pedicures are almost instant mood lifters and confidence builders. Whether it’s a quick pamper session during lunch or the added sparkle for a special occasion, what goes on must eventually come off. But should we be concerned about nail polish remover being hazardous to our health?

Why All the Fuss

In 2023, a research collaboration between the Universities of Notre Dame, Indiana, and Toronto analysed levels of PFAS (polyfluoroalkyl substances), synthetic chemicals linked to disease, in 231 cosmetic product samples from the USA and Canada. They found that 52% of these products contained fluorine, a marker for PFAS, above high levels. Alarmingly, only 8% of these products listed PFAS as an ingredient.

A visit to the EWG’s Skin Deep Cosmetic Database revealed that every nail polish remover I had used in the past 20 years posed at least a moderate hazard. Further investigation showed that most nail care products contain toxic and hazardous substances potentially causing health issues like reproductive problems and cancer.

On the Flip Side

Before swearing off manicures forever, I turned to findings from specialists and dermatologists. A review by a Harvard dermatology resident revealed that while certain chemicals can be absorbed by the body, the exact absorption amount and whether it poses significant health risks remain unclear. Moreover, the safety of "natural" products is debated. According to a study in JAMA Dermatology, there is no definitive scientific evidence linking diseases to the concentration of ingredients in these products.

Interestingly, some natural products often contain high levels of botanical extracts, which are leading causes of irritant allergic contact dermatitis and photosensitisation. Additionally, the EWG’s methods for risk assessment have faced criticism for insufficient data. In contrast, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), supported by the FDA, found that ingredients such as parabens, sulphates, and propylene glycol are non-toxic and non-carcinogenic.

How to Protect Yourself

Use these tips to make safer choices when removing nail polish:

• Be sceptical of marketing claims like “acetone-free” or “alcohol-free”. Many substances flagged as harmful are not commonly present in removers, and acetone, while harsh, does not pose significant health risks.
• Avoid inhaling strong vapours; ensure proper ventilation, especially in salons.
• Don't assume "natural" means safer. Check for potential irritants and allergens in the ingredient list.
• Take breaks from gel polish to avoid damaging the nail plate and promote healthier nails.

In the end, a little common sense and informed choices can go a long way. Now, excuse me while I book my next manicure!