Science Or Hype Experts Examine The Truth Behind Viral PDRN Skincare Treatments

Last year, K-beauty brand Abib tapped into TikTok's buzziest ingredient, PDRN, expanding its collection with an overnight mask and eye patch. Image credit Abib

So, which of this year’s hottest trends are science-backed, and which are pure hype?

The PDRN of it all

Salmon sperm facials, also known as PDRN treatment, have taken the internet by storm thanks to Kim Kardashian singing its praises earlier this year.

The treatment utilises tiny fragments of DNA (PDRN) extracted from salmon sperm, which are injected into the skin using a needle, a cannula or by a microneedling process.

The treatment is believed to help repair the skin barrier, reduce inflammation and improve elasticity.

The benefits of PDRN are thought to have been first discovered by fishermen who applied salmon semen to their wounds to help them heal faster.

Nowadays, PDRN is sometimes used medically post-procedure to help activate the skin’s repair pathways.

Studies indicate that PDRN shows promise in stimulating wound healing and collagen production, but research has largely focused on its medical use, rather than its cosmetic use.

While there is potential, more research is needed, and for now, it’s definitely not a proven fountain of youth.

In addition, some topical skincare products claim to contain 0.5-1.5% PDRN, but because the PDRN molecule is large, it can’t penetrate deeply into the skin without professional delivery methods.

Regenerative beauty

Exosomes are being marketed as the future of regenerative beauty.

In essence, exosomes are cellular messengers that act as microscopic communicators, carrying growth factors and proteins directly to skin cells to trigger repair, regeneration and collagen production. Simply put, they are like text messages sent between our cells.

A cutting-edge skincare breakthrough, exosomes communicate with skin cells when applied topically.

They can instruct your cells to increase collagen and elastin production, reduce inflammation or boost hydration.

Despite the praise for its regenerative properties, some have concerns about the sourcing, safety, and regulation of exosome products.

The FDA does not approve exosome products for cosmetic use, which means that many products on the global market have not been sufficiently tested and are low-quality, inactive, or unstable.

Because there are no standardised industry guidelines for extracting, purifying or measuring exosome concentrations, consumers are at risk of having the wool pulled over their eyes by brands that do not follow rigorous procedures or standards when formulating their products.

When a quality exosome product is formulated by a trusted brand that upholds the highest standards, it can offer incredible skincare benefits.

Not too much now

Another term for “over-hydration”, “skin flooding” is a viral social media trend in which various layers of hydrating skincare products are applied to damp skin in an attempt to saturate it with moisture.

It is believed to plump the skin, strengthen the barrier and make the complexion dewier.

Hydration is extremely important – particularly during winter; however, if the skin is layered with too many heavy products, it can block pores and lead to breakouts.

The key to achieving and maintaining optimal hydration is to find the right balance of products that hydrate without clogging pores.

Brands can tap into the trend with products that hydrate the skin sufficiently without clogging pores.

To attract consumers with extremely dry skin, opt for additional face oil offerings.

This Botox is bananas

There has been a major increase in beauty influencers offering DIY alternatives to injectables like Botulinum toxin.

The “banana peel” TikTok trend went viral at the start of the year, garnering millions of views.

The trend involves rubbing a banana peel on your face for a few minutes every day.

Influencers claimed that the antioxidants in banana peels brighten the skin, tighten it, and offer anti-ageing benefits similar to those of Botulinum toxin injections.

While it’s true that bananas and their peels contain antioxidants, it is unlikely that they will be absorbed through the skin.

Plus, the concentration of the antioxidant lutein is not high enough to offer significant results.

Unfortunately, no food supplement will produce the same effect as injectables.

Other DIY anti-ageing trends include using castor oil, beef tallow, lemon juice and coffee scrubs on the skin.

One of the major things to note here is that “natural” does not necessarily mean better, nor is it guaranteed safe.

Scientists put years of research into practice when they formulate products.

Hypochlorous acid spray

Also referred to as HOCI sprays, these have been around for decades but have recently enjoyed the spotlight thanks to fitness and gym content on TikTok.

Natural and non-toxic, these microbial mists mimic the body’s natural immune response, effectively killing bacteria, reducing redness, and soothing inflammation.

This trend is worth the hype.

In fact, HOCI sprays have been used by professionals in wound care for decades.

During World War I, medics pioneered the use of early, makeshift liquid HOCI to cleanse and disinfect soldiers’ wounds.

Hypochlorous acid naturally combats the bacteria responsible for acne formation; it helps manage inflammation from skin conditions like eczema and rosacea, and assists in the healing of scrapes, cuts, and wounds.

The popular peptide

From ingestible products to skincare to injectables, everyone is talking about peptides.

Simply put, peptides are short chains of amino acids (the building blocks of protein) that act as biological messengers in the body.

They instruct cells to perform specific actions such as repairing tissue or managing hormones.

Peptides occur naturally in our bodies and are also found in protein-rich foods such as meat, dairy, seeds and legumes.

In skincare, peptides act as building blocks for vital skin proteins such as collagen and elastin.

When applied topically, they act as messengers, signalling your skin to repair damage, boost firmness, and reduce the appearance of fine lines.

There is plenty of science supporting the positive effects peptides have on the skin and body.