UCT Establishes ARISE To Address Underrepresentation In African Skin And Hair Science

“African skin and hair have too often been overlooked, understudied, or treated as an afterthought (or) accidental finding," said Professor Lionel Green-Thompson, the dean of UCT's health faculty.

"For far too long have we been underrepresented in research and in product development with sufficient safety standards.

"Too often our knowledge has been imported rather than produced from within the continent,” said Green-Thompson.

Expanding capacity

The research institute will expand South Africa’s capacity for practical, industry-aligned training, applied research, cosmetic product safety testing and occupational skin health research.

With this new building, ARISE will support increased student intake, expand short courses and improve industry-facing service units.

The programme has already trained over 100 cosmetic formulators.

ARISE project lead at UCT, Professor Nonhlanhla Khumalo, said that the institute emerged from moving public perceptions of dermatology away from superficiality.

Moreover, it arose from her experiences at Groote Schuur Hospital's dermatology ward — in which she witnessed several patients suffering from severe drug reactions to cosmetics, some of whom even lost their skin.

"(Through) the significant amount of quality care they received (by clinicians), we managed to get them out of the ward and well," said Khumalo.

“(These were) products with ingredients that we know are illegal and shouldn’t be in products, yet they are.

"And that is really what started to get the whole ball rolling.”

Lucrative endeavour

The uniqueness of African hair textures cannot always be captured.

The Hair Fibre Lab is set to change that by helping clinicians understand the biochemistry of hair, including its mechanics, chemistry and imaging.

Additionally, the institute wants to make dermatology accessible to all South Africans — even those who can't afford it.

This will include tattoo removal for reformed gangsters and others who are unable to afford the procedure.

At $4bn, the South African beauty and personal care market is the largest on the continent, said the acting CEO of Services Seta, Sibusiso Dhladhla, which makes it a lucrative endeavour.

This is why the partnership has also sprouted the Advanced Diploma in Cosmetic Formulation programme, to prepare skin and health professionals for the industry.

In addition to ensuring the industry adheres to general and health standards and complies with the country’s labour law.

“It’s not a small space. It’s a very valuable space.”

“And as an institution, what we are trying to achieve is to formalise the industry and ensure that there are adequate and qualified professionals in the same space.

"That’s why the support of such a programme actually makes sense for us as Services Seta,” Dhladhla said.