Zyle is redefining African heritage with Maputo fabrics turned couture

How does a woman in construction, pouring concrete on a worksite, go to running a premium fashion brand that’s keeping African heritage alive? It begins with a need: for Phumzile Ntuli, it was the desire to tell Africa’s stories through clothing and design, while building something sustainable of her own.

In 2016, as African print fabrics were rapidly gaining popularity in South Africa, she became captivated by the vibrancy and distinctiveness of everyday fashion among women in Maputo. On one trip there, she came across fabrics and designs that, though commonly worn in the region, were so bold and alive with colour that she couldn’t look away. When she first posted photos of a striking blazer and pants on Facebook, the response was overwhelming.

“I realised that this particular African print fabric from Maputo, which the women there were just tying around their waists like it was nothing, was actually something special. The cloth was strong, beautiful, and of such good quality. What really made me think big was people’s reactions back home when I wore it. That was when I knew this could be something more,” she says.

Realising there was an opportunity to introduce these premium fabrics to South Africa, but lacking formal training in design or sewing, Ntuli partnered with a Malawian tailor from a settlement in Kagiso, not far from her home in the West Rand. Every Friday, after long days on construction sites, she would drive to Maputo to source fabrics, and together they began producing garments for eager customers who couldn’t get enough of her creations.

What started as a side project soon grew into a full-fledged business, prompting her to leave her construction career and take a chance on herself. This was the birth of Zyle Clothing – a name that plays on both her own and the word “style.” For Ntuli, it represents a philosophy of balance between traditional values and modern trends, perfectly capturing the brand’s approach to fashion. “The combination creates harmony, and that resonated with what I wanted to achieve. It gave the business a deeper meaning I hadn’t planned, but which made perfect sense,” she explains.

Since those early days, Ntuli has completed a two-year practical diploma with the South West Gauteng TVET College, where she learned to bring the designs in her mind to life. Her growing talent later caught the attention of the Gauteng Growth and Development Agency (GGDA), which supports businesses like Zyle Clothing in transitioning from emerging start-ups into sustainable enterprises that contribute to Gauteng’s economic growth.

Today, Zyle’s range includes blanket pocket denim kimonos, blanket story bags, scarves with and without pockets, storytelling T-shirts, blanket wraps, long and short ponchos, hats, summer ponchos, and bride and groom attire.

Inspired to build the next premium African brand

One of her earliest milestones was a fashion showcase in Hartbeespoort, where she presented an early nature-themed collection. "What was in my head at that time was telling our African stories, using nature as inspiration. I even started with the study of birds, ornithology, because I loved how their habits could inspire designs. My first fashion show featured these bird-inspired pieces, and even though I wasn’t a trained designer yet, people wanted to wear them. That was my wake-up call – the tremendously positive feedback gave me the confidence to fully commit to my dream.”

Ntuli felt inspired to explore more deeply what fashion could represent for Africans, and her focus was drawn to blankets as powerful cultural symbols across many African communities. Zyle evolved into a premium brand for people wanting to honour their heritage while embracing modern life, blending traditional garments with contemporary style.

This unique approach caught the attention of South African icons such as Cassper Nyovest, Vusi Nova, Sthembiso Khoza, Zoleka Mandela – granddaughter of Nelson Mandela, and even the late American actor and Oscar winner Louis Cameron Gossett Jr.

Having conquered Gauteng, and gained the support of many local celebrities, Ntuli is now focused on expanding Zyle’s footprint to South Africa’s coastal regions, while also reaching international markets with the support of the GGDA.

As part of its mandate to grow the province’s economy by supporting small and medium enterprises, GGDA provides the kind of tools that businesses like Zyle need to scale: access to funding opportunities, skills development, manufacturing support, and international market linkages. By helping entrepreneurs navigate supply chains, secure retail channels, and showcase their products on global platforms, GGDA is positioning Zyle to thrive.

For Ntuli, this will mean scaling up manufacturing capacity, expanding into export markets, and positioning Zyle on international fashion stages. With GGDA’s backing, the brand can carry Gauteng’s creative energy abroad, turning heritage-driven design into an international business success story.

Ntuli’s story highlights the challenges that small businesses face, from access to capital and skills development to the impact of disruptions like unreliable energy supply or infrastructure challenges such as poor logistics and transport challenges. It also shows how strategic interventions, even at early stages, can unlock opportunities that might otherwise be lost. By helping businesses access resources, connect with markets, and expand their reach, GGDA is ensuring that Gauteng’s creative industries become engines of growth.